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Wednesday, October 23, 2024

Abu Dhabi: Day 1

Stepping outside your senses are assaulted by the sights, smells and sounds of a new city. Abu Dhabi is no different. The air is thick, hot and humid, smelling somewhat of the sea and also of the city. There is a yellowish haze in the air that makes the light feel a little apocalyptic, and you're not quite sure if it's pollution or the humidity, probably both. Above the din of traffic, is the muslim call to prayer coming out over loud speakers. As you pass by the shops you are beckoned in by a waft of ice cold air that often smells full of wonderful spice.

Breakfast with Benjamin Bunny
Our day began with checking in to our hotel at 1am. A smell of cigarettes in the foyer gave me the forethought to ask for a smoke free room. We were able to get some good sleep until 6am.

Breakfast at the hotel was included, and possibly one of the best things to do in a foreign country at least once. It was a sumptuous feast that would usually be called a "full cooked breakfast", but this feast had a definite international flavour. Along with the usual English breakfast staples there was a large array of Arabic, Indian and Asian foods. The flavour combinations used in other cuisines are always a delight to the mouth. I loved the dish that appeared to be a cous cous with green beans, garlic, pepper and chilli. There was another with rice and lamb. Both of us consciously ate to be very full, knowing we would not eat until our evening meal. 

Qasr Al Hosn, with a mosque to Christian's left,
and building works.
Breakfast also had a salad bar set out, and I took bits of this and that. Some things I knew and some I had no idea. Most food at the salad bar was not labelled. When I got back to our dining table, Christian pointed at my plate and said: "They have smoked salmon!" I responded that I didn't think it was as it felt like the wrong texture, so I went to have some. At this I was surprised by the intense spice and ferment. I have no idea what it was, maybe a kimchi type dish, but it was HOT! I had to leave the table immediately and get some water.

Inside Qasr Al Hosn
So off on our adventures around the city. We asked for a map, and were given a poor tourist type map that has no road names, and poorly placed 3D buildings. Considering we have no phone coverage here, this was going to be a real adventure.
The imposing old doors

We wondered here and there for about 3 or 4 city blocks until we came to Qasr Al Hosn, the cultural centre and fort that was built originally in the 1700's. This we found not by map, but by using our eyes and following what we thought looked like some cultural buildings (maybe they were just big concrete sculptures and a defunct fountain).


Qasr Al Hosn was well worth our time. The fort is quite beautiful. It's use has changed over the years and it was at one time both the residence for the Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan and his family, and also the place for the administration of Abu Dhabi (it was used thus until the 1980's). It's also attached to the artisans building, where we were able to have a special presentation on how they make traditional Arabic coffee. I had a lovely chat with two women who were making the beautiful ribbons used for embroidering Emirati clothing. I asked about the older woman's face covering, and the younger woman explained for her that it was Emirati style, they think it is beautiful, although usually only the older women wear it now.

The Sheikh's khanjars - a ceremonial dagger
And the beautiful shawl, a gift to his wife from Benin
It was time for a rest and so came the adventure of getting back to the hotel. I was using my "sense of direction" and Christian was attempting to use the map with no street names. It was hot, and only getting hotter with all the walking in the sun, so I asked a guy for help...but I chose someone with poor to no English. But at that point we were saved by Christian remembering a street name he had seen. Then I saw a chicken place I remembered seeing and so we made it back...hot, very hot, and very grateful to God for the air conditioning everywhere here.

Our afternoon consisted of beginning to go to the market to see what we could see. We past by some lovely spices all piled high, and found a carpet shop with a lovely man selling carpets. They were beautiful, intricate, silk carpets...and he was very good at his job, sweet talking us and smiling, not telling his price, not taking no for an answer...the works! We both had a lot of fun. And I cut a good bargain too.

An emporium we found. Much 
like our $2 shops...but over
3 levels, organised with piles
of things EVERYWHERE!

We took a taxi across the city to a high end mall for dinner with Christian's doctor friend. He took us to a delightful Lebanese-Armenian restaurant, where he ordered a magnificent feast. The flavours were amazing, the conversation good. Together we went for a walk across to the hospital where he works: The Cleveland Clinic- Abu Dhabi. A day so full and our bellies very full.


Being taught the proper way
for Arabic coffee to be made.


The old family door
to allow the family
privacy coming in and out



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